excerpt:
Doc Paskowitz started surfing in the Gulf of Mexico on Galveston Island. He’s 92, and he’s still surfing.
While he would never agree, Doc can be considered one of the earliest pioneers of the shape of today’s surf culture. He spent nearly 25 years on the road, living in a succession of used campers. It is, quite possibly, the world’s longest surf trip. He and his wife raised nine children in those campers, soaking them in the ocean and their idea of how life should be lived.
