excerpts:
"Mark Foo would have been 56 today. He was born in Singapore, the son of a State Department intelligence officer—possibly a spy; Mark never knew for sure—and the family was always on the move. Couple of years in Hawaii when Mark was in grade school, then Maryland, then at 15 Mark bailed to Florida’s Gulf Coast, then back to Hawaii. Sort of a crazy, unmoored life up to that point. But from 16 on it was a hardcore, fully-focused, non-stop surfing life."
Has surfing made you religious?
Foo: It has, yeah. Religion is man’s understanding for what he can’t understand. And when you surf, there’s just so much about it, so much beauty, that it’s beyond words. There’s power out there in the ocean that is beyond words. I had no real religious background as a kid, and I now embrace beliefs from many religions. But for sure, surfing makes me believe in God. Surfing is the most obvious manifestation of God."
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- Report
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- February 5, 2014 8:15 pm
